Escape the heat: Kalimpong, for monasteries and mountain air
Nestled along a saddle-shaped mountain ridge overlooking the Teesta River and crowned by the Khangchendzonga range, Kalimpong is the kind of hill town most people stumble upon on a day trip from Darjeeling, and choose to stay on a little longer. For centuries a central point on the trade route between India and Tibet, the town's long association with Scottish and British missionaries has left an indelible imprint on its architecture, food and culture. Majestic old bungalows sit alongside ornate Buddhist monasteries and nurseries growing exotic varieties of orchid and cacti. With spectacular views, a laidback energy and great weather, Kalimpong is the hill town you go to for long walks, slow meals and the pleasure of reading in a grove of pine trees.
By Air: There are direct flights from most Indian cities to Bagdogra International Airport near Siliguri. Kalimpong is a 2.5-hour drive away. From Darjeeling, it's just two hours by road.
One of Kalimpong's most storied properties, this gorgeous ivy-clad mansion was built in the 1930s by an English jute baron called George Morgan and perches atop Durpin Dara, which means 'binocular hill' in Nepali. Today managed by the West Bengal State Tourism Board, the expansive lawns offer views of the Khangchendzonga on clear days. The many tales of the late Mrs Morgan roaming the house in her favourite high heels are the stuff of local legend. Doubles from Rs3,500.
Housed in a century-old building, Mayfair offers all mod-cons with a side of history. The hotel has refurbished its heritage wing while keeping its vintage aesthetic intact, think four-poster beds, fireplaces and stately wooden armouries. A good pick for those who want comfort as well as character. Doubles from Rs15,000.
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